Cookbook

Penne arrabbiata

2 min readpasta, tomato, chilli, weeknight
Illustration for Penne arrabbiata

This is the sauce to make when you have two tomatoes and not much else. Fresh tomatoes alone are watery and thin, so they get help from tomato puree for depth and from starchy pasta water to bind everything into something that clings. Coriander instead of basil, and a pinch of sugar at the end to balance the acidity.

The pasta and the sauce cook in roughly the same time, so start the water first and prep while it heats.

What you'll need

  • 100g penne
  • 2 tomatoes
  • 4 cloves garlic
  • 5 tbsp tomato puree
  • A handful of coriander
  • Olive oil — be generous
  • Chilli flakes
  • Salt
  • A pinch of sugar

The recipe

1

Boil and salt the water

Bring a litre of water to a rolling boil and add 2–3 tsp salt.

2

Prep while it heats

Dice the tomatoes small, slice the garlic thinly, and roughly chop the coriander.

3

Cook the pasta

Add the penne and cook to al dente. Strain it, but keep a mug of the pasta water — you'll need it three times.

4

Bloom the garlic and chilli

Warm a generous pour of olive oil in a saucepan over medium-low heat. Add the sliced garlic and chilli flakes and cook only until fragrant, 30–45 seconds. Burnt garlic turns the whole sauce bitter, so pull the pan off the heat if it's colouring fast.

5

Start the tomatoes

Add the diced tomatoes, 2 tbsp of the tomato puree, and 2 tbsp pasta water. Cook until the tomatoes slump and go soft, then mash them down with a masher or the back of a spoon.

6

Build the body

Stir in the remaining 3 tbsp tomato puree and another 1–2 tbsp pasta water. Let it simmer until it's glossy and coats a spoon, then add the coriander.

7

Taste and balance

Loosen with a splash more pasta water if it's tight. Then taste and adjust: salt if it needs lift, a pinch of sugar if the tomatoes are sharp.

8

Toss and serve

Add the drained penne to the pan and toss until every piece is coated. Serve with grated cheese and toasted bread.

Why it's made this way

Fresh tomatoes bring brightness but almost no body; tomato puree brings concentration but tastes flat on its own. Using both — puree in two additions, so some of it cooks down and some stays fresh-tasting — gets you a sauce with depth that still tastes like tomatoes.

The pasta water does the actual binding. Its dissolved starch emulsifies with the olive oil, which is why the sauce ends up clinging to the penne instead of pooling at the bottom of the bowl.

Penne arrabbiata, plated
How it turned out.